亮點(diǎn)不只與adidas originals 聯(lián)名！服裝本身就是魔法，Gucci 2022 大秀「EXQUISITE」四大亮點(diǎn)一次看！
By Amber Chiu
2022年2月26日
LONGCHAMP AH227 FEVRIER 2022QUAI HENRI IV
LONGCHAMP AH227 FEVRIER 2022QUAI HENRI IV Gregoire Avenel
有在關(guān)心時(shí)尚圈的朋友們，今早起床肯定狂被GUCCI在新一季中攜手愛迪達(dá)adidas originals 推出聯(lián)名系列的消息洗版，自從2020 年受到疫情影響，GUCCI 宣布將取消季度、性別的限制，一年減至兩場無性別不定時(shí)的時(shí)裝秀，本次驚喜回歸米蘭時(shí)裝周日程，回到老家的創(chuàng)意總監(jiān)Alessandro Michele 果然不讓人失望，全新一季名為「Exquisite Gucci」的新系列之中，有著不少令人驚喜的亮點(diǎn)，就讓我們一起來看！
LONGCHAMP AH227 FEVRIER 2022QUAI HENRI IV
LONGCHAMP AH227 FEVRIER 2022QUAI HENRI IV Gregoire Avenel
以鏡子為主要關(guān)鍵
一踏入秀場看到的是片鋪四周的鏡面，這鏡子不是一班的鏡子，類似波紋流動(dòng)的曲線讓他成了哈哈鏡，早在秀發(fā)布之前官方instagram 也推出類似變形哈哈鏡的濾鏡，13世紀(jì)時(shí)， Vincent de Beauvais在《Speculum majus》（巨鏡）中，認(rèn)為鏡子是一種重要的知識工具，透過鏡子，確實(shí)可能對現(xiàn)實(shí)達(dá)到更透明的理解，Alessandro Michele 透過鏡子的元素，傳達(dá)出他對于時(shí)尚一直以來的堅(jiān)持，衣服能夠在不同長限即維度上反映著我們，穿著打扮為著讓我們成為其他人的門檻。
不過若只是普通一面鏡子就太無趣了，于是哈哈鏡的概念就這樣誕生，鏡子在文學(xué)故事中創(chuàng)造畸變、施加魔法與喚醒鬼魂，更能激發(fā)無限想像力，這是對變形的禮贊，秀場上妙趣的折射機(jī)制打破了每一個(gè)空間限制，你可以是完全不受限制的樣貌。
無性別
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women FallWinter 20222023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in...
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, on February 25, 2022. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images) MIGUEL MEDINA
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在家當(dāng)壽司店老板！從殺魚、腌漬、捏壽司產(chǎn)線一條龍教學(xué)How to Make 12 Types of Sushi with 11 Different Fish｜科普長知識
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women FallWinter 20222023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in...
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, on February 25, 2022. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images) MIGUEL MEDINA
Gucci 可以說是目前為止時(shí)尚品牌當(dāng)中無性別做的最完整的，整場秀看下來，你會完全忘記性別這件事賦予服裝的意義，一套剪裁得宜的西裝可能搭配褲裝或裙裝，也可能是男�；蚺Ｔ忈專ㄓ只蛘呤悄阋谎蹮o法二分性別的模特），甚至每一套衣服什么無論男女都能夠駕馭出自己的風(fēng)格。性別大概是這一場秀當(dāng)中最不重要的事情了，模糊的界線更能夠讓觀眾將注意力完全集中在服裝本身，只需關(guān)注這件衣服本身的美好。
與adidas originals 驚喜聯(lián)手
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women FallWinter 20222023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in...
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, on February 25, 2022. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images) MIGUEL MEDINA
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women FallWinter 20222023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in...
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, on February 25, 2022. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images) MIGUEL MEDINA
說到這場秀的特色亮點(diǎn)，少不了提到與adidas originals 的攜手，一系列包含服裝、包包、鞋款、配件，都大量運(yùn)用了originals 的元素，最直接的就是將標(biāo)志性的三葉草圖案與三線添加到服裝上，originals 與Gucci 的標(biāo)志有著有趣的相似之處，不僅是條紋（Gucci 紅色和綠色的條文，愛迪達(dá)有三條白色），以及三葉草和Gucci 蜜蜂之間的都有呼應(yīng)。
MILAN ITALY FEBRUARY 25 A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week FallWinter 202223 on...
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022/23 on February 25, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci) Daniele Venturelli
MILAN ITALY FEBRUARY 25 A model fashion detail walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week FallWinter...
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: A model, fashion detail, walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022/23 on February 25, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci) Daniele Venturelli
MILAN ITALY FEBRUARY 25 A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week FallWinter 202223 on...
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: A model walks the runway at the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022/23 on February 25, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci) Daniele Venturelli
除了圖案運(yùn)用之外，這次的合作融合了裁縫傳統(tǒng)和運(yùn)動(dòng)裝，像是西裝選擇正式的格紋，卻是休閑的無領(lǐng)款式，肩膀添加三線的運(yùn)動(dòng)氛圍、胸口點(diǎn)綴三葉草，看似正式的造型卻有著運(yùn)動(dòng)潮流感，袖子口還拼接大量毛毛裝飾；或者運(yùn)用一般來說常見于運(yùn)動(dòng)服的面料，帶有點(diǎn)彈性與光澤，卻做成了大禮服或外套，每一套都巧妙將高端奢侈品與街頭運(yùn)動(dòng)、正式與休閑的界線模糊，兩造的特色都沒有消失，一加一大于二的效果。
打造更有個(gè)人特色的服裝
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women FallWinter 20222023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in...
A model presents a creation during the Gucci Women Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection as part of the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, on February 25, 2022. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images) MIGUEL MEDINA
如果只是這樣就太無趣，這幾年來網(wǎng)路上流行著DIY 改造的風(fēng)潮，這也直接運(yùn)用到秀場上，女裝多款馬甲由運(yùn)動(dòng)服拼接GG Logo 的布料，直接將地下改造的產(chǎn)品轉(zhuǎn)化，搬到秀場上來，「形態(tài)的增生、替換、翻轉(zhuǎn)、放大、縮小、擴(kuò)張、收縮」（J. Baltru?aitis）：這些都是巴羅克式鏡子創(chuàng)造奇幻異界的方式。魔鏡如此這般的神奇，也是服裝設(shè)計(jì)需要的鬼斧神工，透過這些方式與服裝，才更能展現(xiàn)每個(gè)人真正的特色。
